How To Read A Commercial Pattern Envelope (17min)

, by JULIE

Beginning Sewing Links

Free crochet collar pattern from LuLu Loves

, by JULIE

In accessories, crochet

DIY Detachable Removable Peter Pan Collars


Collar made by Grow Creative from Free crochet collar pattern by LuLu Loves

I'm currently teaching my sewing classes and one of my students really loves unique collars. This reminded me that I always wanted to make a detachable collar. I love the idea of it being like jewelry in the sense you can add it to any outfit. The possibilities are endless! Here are my favorite tutorials I have found.

You could crochet one like above and below from Grow Creative. This is probably the first one I will try because I have been more into learning how to crochet and knit since I'm pretty advanced with sewing. I love a challenge. Knitting or crocheting one would take more time, but so worth it I think look at how cute this collar is? Get the Free crochet collar pattern from LuLu Loves.

Collar made by Grow Creative from Free crochet collar pattern by LuLu Loves

Another option that would take little time and only require a tiny bit of hand sewing is to make one out of felt (like the tutorial below from Honestly WTF), pleather, or leather (from SequinBlog). No sewing machine needed. Since the edges won't fray you don't need to make any seams. You can also punch through holes in the fabric since it won't fray. The tutorials below uses a hole punch for each scallop, but I'm sure there are many other cool ways you could add cut out designs to your collar. I'd imagine scrap booking would have some nifty cut out like this 3 in 1 lace corner punch cut out tool, or this floral vine edger punch from Martha Stewart Crafts. I doubt this would work on leather or pleather, but might work on felt. Try at your own risk as I have not tested this idea yet and they are made for paper, but if you scrap book any ways I would try it.

Felt Scalloped detachable Peter Pan Collar Free pattern and tutorial from Honestly WTF (hand sewing only)

This tutorial comes from Sequin Blog, which no longer exists so the pic above is all the directions available but making it in leather should be very similar to the collar made by Honestly WTF

You could also make one sewing on a sewing machine with fabric with a fun print like quilting cotton fabric like this one by My Sparkles (pictured below), or a bright color to color block with outfits.

Get the free pattern for this peter pan collar from My Sparkles

I also like the idea of a collar in a neutral color with embellishments such as lace, crystals, studs, glitter, beads, sequins, and rhinestones. Megan Nielsen's collar below is a great example.

Free pattern from Megan Nielsen for a beaded detachable peter pan collar with a scalloped edge

, by JULIE

In crafts, crochet

Best of Free Printable Tags/ Labels For Handmade Gifts

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, by JULIE

How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

Image from Sweet Briar Sisters

image credit: Stitch in my Side

You will want to start with an easy pattern of course. My students in my last class (I teach in the non virtual world too), asked me a great question I never thought of, how do I know what an easy pattern is? Look for patterns that have key words like easy, and quick. Terms like average or advanced would indicate that it is NOT a pattern for beginners. Also try to select a pattern with few pieces and no more than one new technique for you. Some good first projects are any clothes that are wraps (wrap skirt, wrap dress, etc.), or have elastic waist bands. Other good first projects are pillows, stuffed animals, pillow cases, etc.

image credit: Stitch in my Side

To shop for a pattern you should first look for a table with the pattern books. They will be huge fat heavy books with the styles of patterns in them. After you find the style you like remember the style number of the pattern and go to the file cabinet of the pattern brand you chose. Then look for the pattern number you chose.

Selecting a Size
Patterns tend to be smaller than ready to wear (clothes in the stores). The reason is designers started to make clothes bigger with a smaller size labelled, because everyone wants to say they are a smaller size! This is also why no label sizes the same.

So do not go by your normal size, instead go by your measurements. So you will need to take your measurements (bust, waist, and hips) before you go shopping for patterns.

Reading The Pattern Envelope

image credit: Rosie Wednesday

Pick a style on the front you want to make and then look at the back. The picture above is of the back of a pattern (Simplicity pattern #3833).

1. This is the pattern number
2. The amount of pattern pieces for all styles.
3. These computerized pictures of the styles are called flats. I learned how to make them in fashion design school. They show details that might not show in an illustration like darts, seams, buttons, and zippers.
4. Fabrics are suggested types of fabrics for the pattern. You don't have to use them, but your project is more likely to turn out if you do follow the pattern companies suggestion.
5. Notions are what you need to complete your project besides fabric and or interfacing (we will cover what interfacing is later). Some examples would be buttons, elastic, or a zipper.
6. Body Measurements. Select the size that's closest to your body measurements. You can follow the line down to match how much fabric you'll need for your size. If you are a female and larger than a B cup you should use your high bust measurement instead of full bust. See picture below.

Source

7. Amount of Fabric look at the style you want to make and the size, and you will see the amount of fabric you will need depending on the width of fabric you chose comes in at the fabric store. Typically bolts of fabric come in widths of 45" or 60". If your fabric you chose is only 45" you would need more fabric than if it were 60" wide.
8. Interfacing quantity. Interfacing is a stiff material that you place on the wrong side of fabric to help give it stiffness and more body. It can be fused to your fabric with an iron (fusable) or sewn to the pattern piece. It's usually used at necklines, in collars, waistbands, cuffs, etc. This tells you the amount to buy for the version of the style you choose.
9. Finished garment measurements. This is the amount of extra ease added by some patterns in certain areas such as the bust to help make sure you have enough fabric to allow for mistakes such as having your measurements off. In the picture above the size chosen in the picture above has 36" for the bust for example and the finished garment measurement for the bust for that size is 38 1/2" this means they allowed in the pattern for an extra 2 1/2" only in the bust.
10. Fabric with or without nap. Nap means that the fabric will look different depending on how it's positioned. This usually comes in the form of texture (velvet cordorary) or design (stripes, novelty prints, etc.). So if you have flowers for example, you'll need more fabric to make sure all the flowers match up on your finished garment. This pattern has ** next to each fabric width, indicating that they've given you all fabric requirements with nap, this is the maximum amount of fabric you'd need.

Still have questions? Then watch this video below from Professor Pincushion on how to read a commercial pattern.

How To Read A Commercial Pattern Envelope (17min)

Homework:
If you don't have a pattern at home to look at go to your local craft/sewing store (Walmart will do as well) and look at their patterns. Of course you can buy patterns online as well, but I would save that until you are more familiar with patterns. You can look for one for your first project, or just to familiarize yourself with patterns.

Next Lesson: Check back soon for our next lesson on how to understand what's in the pattern envelope.

Previous Lessons:
lesson 1: Welcome and intro first,
lesson 2: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine
lesson 3: Sewing Machine Supplies
lesson 4: Getting to Know Your Machine

lesson 6: How to Sew a Straight, curved, and corner line

lesson 7: How to Sew a Basic Seam
Lesson 8: Trouble Shooting Your Sewing Machine
Lesson 9: Basic Sewing Terms

Lesson 10: How to Fix Tension on Your Sewing Machine

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, by JULIE

In crafts, DIY Gifts

Top 10 Kickass Easy Handmade Gifts

, by JULIE

Check out Sewing School's post on tension

How to Fix Tension on Your Sewing Machine

Threads Magazine has a great tension guide: notice where the tension points are

How Do You Know If Your Tension Is the Problem?

If your stitches look perfect and your sewing machine is sewing great, do not touch your tension knobs! However if your follow the below check list from Threads Magazine and it's still not right, I would suggest starting to try adjusting your tension slowly using a test scrap piece of fabric (never your project)!

Please Check the Following Before Touching your Tension Dial

A drop of oil has been added to the hook area (when applicable).
The correct presser foot is attached for the technique and fabric.
Incorrectly threaded machine: Did you use all thread guides? Did you thread with the presser foot down,which would keep the thread from slipping fully between tension discs? Is thread unwinding freely from the spool, or catching on the spool’s slash? Are you using a bobbin as a spool (which can interfere with the thread flow)? Is the bobbin inserted correctly?
Dirty machine: Lint and thread ends lodged between the tension discs, under the throat plate, or around the bobbin case and bobbin, increase the resistance and restrict the thread flow. “Floss” between the tension discs with a lightweight, lint-free cloth, and check in the bobbin area for thread ends and lint.
Damaged machine parts: Bent needles and bobbins, and rough or damaged surfaces on the needle eyes, thread guides, tension discs, take-up lever, throat plate, presser foot, bobbin case, and in the bobbin area can all cause problems. If you drop a metal bobbin on a hard floor, throw it away, even if it looks fine; the smallest damage can distort tension. Avoid damage to the bobbin-tension spring by cutting the thread close to the case before removing the bobbin. Raise the presser foot before removing thread from the upper tension.
Needles, threads, and fabrics: Different thread sizes and types on top and in the bobbin can throw off basic tension settings. A needle that’s too large or small for the thread can also unbalance your stitches, because the size of the hole adds to or reduces the total top tension. If you find that you’re getting puckers on lightweight fabrics try changing to a straight-stitch foot and needle plate, and shorten the stitch length to 1.75 mm (15 sts/in.), before you reach for those tension dials.

How do You Fix You Tension?
Tension is like a game of tug of war. When both sides are equal neither sides are winning. When one side is winning and one is losing your tension is off. The key to finding out which way to turn your tension dial is to find out what side is winning and losing. Is your top thread loose and bottom too tight? Or is your top thread tight and your bottom loose? One way that makes this easy to tell is to use a light coloured piece of fabric to test with two different colour threads that will show nicely against one another. The below graphics I think are a great way of illustrating this tug of war. I would actually suggest printing the below picture and keeping it with your sewing machine for a quick reference. Trust me it will come in handy!

Love this graphic showing how tension works from Superior Threads

Here's another great graphic showing tension. Image is from Kite Sewing 101

In order to understand tension you need to understand which way it is off. I have found that understanding it is the best way to learn this. If you look at the illustrations above and think it out I'm sure you will understand which way you need to adjust your tension.

If you look at the above graphic you can see illustration number 1 (far left) shows a fabric sample that shows the top thread on the bottom, unlike the perfect tension in illustration 3 (the far right). This means that the top tension is to loose and the bottom to tight. In illustartion number two there is the opposite problem.

How Do You Increase or Decrease Your Tension

So now that you know how to determine which thread is tight and which is loose how do you adjust it?

How to Adjust Top Tension
First you need to find your tension regulating dial (see illustration of sewing machine above). It will be in a different place on every machine so if your not sure which knob it is, check your sewing machine manual. If you do not have a manual it will be the knob with numbers on it that does not change your type of stitches or length.

If Your Top Tension is to Loose
To increase your top tension (if your top tension is loose) turn your knob so that the numbers are increasing. Try 1/2 to one number lower, then test on a light piece of scrap fabric with a different colour thread top and bottom. Continue until it looks even on both sides and you can no longer see the bottom thread on the top. If you seem unable to do this keep it where it is closet to balanced and proceed to how to adjust your bobbin tension below.

If Your Top Tension is to Tight
To decrease your top tension (if your top tension is tight) turn your knob so that the numbers are decreasing. Try 1/2 to one number lower, then test on a light piece of scrap fabric with a different colour thread top and bottom. Continue until it looks even on both sides and you can no longer see the bottom thread on the top. If you seem unable to do this keep it where it is closet to balanced and proceed to how to adjust your bobbin tension below.

How to Adjust Your Bobbin Tension (Your Lower Thread Tension)
You should always try to adjust with your top tension first if possible. You should not need to adjust your bobbin tension unless you are using a heavier or lighter thread than usual. Heavier fabric needs more tension (turn the dial to a higher number) and lighter fabric less tension (turn the dial to a lower number). According to Mainely Sewing Machines too many adjustments with the screw in the bobbin could make it loosen it's grip.

Every machine will have either a top loading drop in bobbin, or bottom loading with a bobbin case (the sewing machine pictured above has a bottom loading case). The below picture shows how to adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the bobbin case screw.

Here are a few things to keep in mind to trouble shoot before adjusting your bobbin tension.

Is your bobbin winded right? Meaning is it would too loose and loopy or to tight?
Do you have the right bobbin for your machine?
Has your bobbin case fallen on the floor? If so it might be damaged and therefore affecting the tension.

Check out these great videos to see how to adjust tension on your sewing machine. Sometimes it just helps to watch someone. :)

How to Adjust Tension | Sewing Machine How Cast (4 min)

This is a great quick video about how to adjust upper thread tension

Sewing Machine Thread Tension - Updated Professor Pincushion (9 min)

This is a VERY through explanation of adjusting top and bottom tension (bottom loading only)

Bottom Loading Bobbins
One simple way to test if you need to adjust your bobbin tension if you have a bottom loading bobbin is to take the thread hanging from your bobbin case (if you don't have a bobbin case you have a front loading bobbin). If the thread unwinds and the bobbin drops a few inches, your tension is perfect. If the thread doesn’t unwind at all, your tension is too tight and will need to be loosened. If the thread unwinds with no effort and the bobbin drops easily, your tension is too loose and you’ll need to tighten it. Use a tiny screwdriver and turn the screw on the side of the bobbin case by 1/4 turn. As seen in the illustration below the good old righty tighty lefty loosey applies here. Test the tension again. Repeat until the thread only drops a few inches.

image via singer

Top Loading Bobbin
Below is a picture of a top loading bobbin case. For how to adjust tension on a sewing machine like this (top loading) in the video below.

Top Loading Thimble: image via Yesterday's Thimble

Check out the video below to learn how to adjust tension in top and bottom loading sewing machines. She describes everything great and is very to the point!

Top and Front Load Bobbin Explained (5 min)

Here is a great pdf on tension from the University of Kentucky. I suggest that you print this and keep it with your sewing machine for a quick reference.

Found This Post Because You are Having Problems With You Machine?

Since starting this sewing school I have had many people trying to ask my questions about problems with their sewing machines. I will not answer any specific answers to your machine questions beyond this so please don't ask. Here is my general advice: "Have you read the above my article and applied what you learned? If not try that. If your machine is still not working check out my troubleshooting guide, also check your sewing machine manual which usually while have a troubleshooting guide as well. If this does not work you can try a sewing forum such as Threads magazine's or try a search online describing your problem. If this all fails you need to take your machine in to be repaired, unfortunately sometimes you just have to.

Homework
With a white piece of fabric and two different colored threads sew a straight line and look at it compared to the tug of war pictures in this lesson. How does your tension look? If it is not perfect work until you can achieve perfect balance (neither top nor bottom is tugging more than the other).

Next Lesson: How to Read a Pattern Envelope

Previous Lessons:
lesson 1: Welcome and intro first,
lesson 2: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine
lesson 3: Sewing Machine Supplies
lesson 4: Getting to Know Your Machine

lesson 6: How to Sew a Straight, curved, and corner line

lesson 7: How to Sew a Basic Seam
Lesson 8: Trouble Shooting Your Sewing Machine
Lesson 9: Basic Sewing Terms

Next Lessons:
Lesson 11: How to Read a Pattern Envelope

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, by JULIE

Interfacing image via Craftstylish

Basic Sewing Terms

vintage pincushion pattern for sale at Craftsy

Hi Everyone! If your following this class, good to see you back again. If your new welcome to the class! If you need to catch up you can see at the bottom of this post or click here to what our prior lessons were if you need to catch up Today we are going to learn some basic sewing terms to get you started with pictures. Some of these terms we will cover in further depth in future lessons.

Basic Sewing Terms

Seam Allowance- The width of your seam, from the stitch line to edge of fabric. This usually varies from 1/2" to 5/8" for most seams. Your pattern will tell you how much to use.
Fabric Grain-means the direction of the threads that are woven in the fabric. The term warp threads are the secure threads on a loom, while the term weft refers to the threads that are woven back and forth through the warp threads.
Bias-A 45 degree angle to the straight grain is a bias cut in sewing, and is the stretchiest part of the fabric.
Straight Grain The straight of grain runs parallel to the selvage.
Cross Grain The cross grain is always perpendicular to the selvage.

Selvage-The bound edges of the fabric that are created when the weft threads are woven back and forth in the weaving process. The selvage edge will often have writing on it or a slight differences from the rest of the fabric. The selvage edges will not look like you just cut through it.
Nap-This refers to fuzzy fabrics such as a fleece or velvet. Some fabric have a one direction nap, so it’s important to sew the pieces of a project with nap going the same way. You will often have to buy extra fabric if your working with a nap. It will often tell you how much on your pattern
Interfacing A generally light weight material used on the inside of a project for added stability. It comes in fusible (iron on) or sew on forms and often has a separate section at sewing stores near the fabric. Your pattern will tell you if any is needed,how many yards, and what piece or pieces it will be used on.

Facing-A partial lining used in areas suçh as arm holes, necklines to give a finished edge without a complete lining.
Dart- Helps to shape fabric around curved areas. Often around bustlines, waist, hips, and shoulder areas.
Basting Stitch-A temporary stitch to hold fabric in place.
Backstitch-At the beginning, and end of your stitching, a few reverse stitches on your machine locks your stitches, so they don’t unravel. Most seams will start and end this way unless you are doing a specific technique that requires you to use a basting stitch.

image via Newton Custom Interiors

Sewing foot-The presser foot that is attached to your shank of the sewing machine, such as an all purpose foot, zipper foot, blind hem foot, etc.
Clipping-Cut the seam allowance perpendicular to the seam, but not into the seam. This allows fabric to lay smoothly around curves.

image via Newton Custom Interiors

Top Stitching-A decorative or functional stitch that is done on the outside of a seam after it is turned, such as the top edge of a tote bag that is lined. It helps to keep corners and seams as sharp as when ironed.
Notches are used to line up two or more pieces of fabric that you will be joining together. Notches are symbolized in various sizes, from single to quadruple. Larger notches always refer to the back side of the garment, which help keep fronts and backs straight in your mind and prevent mistakes.

Image via Sewing about.com

Dots: Image via Sewing about.com

Dots are made in various sizes by the pattern companies. These must be marked onto your fabric. They indicate starting and stopping points for stitching, as well as points to match up markings for things like darts.

Next Lesson: How to Fix Tension on Your Sewing Machine

Previous Lessons:
lesson 1: Welcome and intro first,
lesson 2: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine
lesson 3: Sewing Machine Supplies
lesson 4: Getting to Know Your Machine

lesson 6: How to Sew a Straight, curved, and corner line

lesson 7: How to Sew a Basic Seam
lesson 8: Trouble Shooting your Machine

Next Lessons:
lesson 10: How to Fix Tension on Your Sewing Machine
Lesson 11: How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

, by JULIE

Trouble Shooting Your Sewing Machine

Check out artist Natalie Dee for more funny comics

Hi Everyone! If your following this class, good to see you back again. If your new welcome to the class! If you need to catch up you can see at the bottom of this post or click here to what our prior lessons were if you need to catch up Today we are going to learn what to do when you have sewing machine problems!

One of the most important things you can learn when it comes to sewing is what to do when your sewing machine goes crazy, because it will! Just ask anyone who has sewed for a long time. This often scares off new sewers and cause projects to be put off only never to be finished. Just picture yourself finally on a roll on your project until..... it jams with your project stuck in the machine. Aughhh! It will happen to you, but if you know what to do it will be a short blimp along the way. I have often had students who say they had a little experience long ago that they stopped sewing because "they were afraid of their sewing machine". So if this is you, just know that you are not alone.

The tricky thing about your sewing machine not working right is most of the time it really doesn't need to be repaired. I would guess 90% of the time that's the case. So how do you know if your machine might actually be repaired? Well that's what we are going to cover here. I'm going to share with you this class what I do to trouble shoot my machine.

image via pickle dish

Stop, Cut, and Rethread
Say it with me stop, cut, and rethread............stop, cut, and rethread......stop, cut, and rethread. This is what I want you to chant in your head (or out loud if you don't mind looking crazy) when something goes wrong with your machine. This is my first method of trouble shooting when things go wrong. It will seriously fix about 70% of your sewing machine problems. I know it sounds to easy to be true, but I swear it is. Sewing machines are finicky machines. They like extra attention now and then that's all. Don't be mad at your machine, it just wants a little extra love! Below is a more detailed explanation of my method. If this doesn't work have no fear it might just be that your tension is off which we will cover in our tension lesson.

This is what Urban Threads (a Mpls based embroidery comp) has on their office door,

If Your Machine is Sewing Weird Stop!
My first rule is if something doesn't seem right when you are sewing stop immediately. The reason is if you continue to sew and your machine isn't working correctly, it call actually pull your fabric down into the feed dogs (if your not sure what this is review lesson 4) and you might actually be in the position of having to cut out your project to get it out of your sewing machine. And if you don't have enough extra fabric to cut a new pattern piece your whole project will be ruined. Really not cool!

Cut Your Threads

The next step is to cut your threads, and take out your bobbin. While how to cut your threads may seem self explanatory, depending on how severe the problem you are having it may be a bit difficult. If you are having difficulties because your thread and or project is tangled up in your machine you should cut both the top and the bottom thread as close to your project as you can. If you are having problems with cutting your thread on the top you can take out your needle. This can also help if you have fabric stuck in your feed dogs. You can then put your needle back in after you have your threads all out.

Rethread Your Sewing Machine
After you've stopped, cut your threads (both top and bottom), have removed any threads in your machine, and taken your bobbin out you are ready to rethread your machine. When I say rethread your machine I mean the whole thing top and bottom, even if you think they are OK. If you forgot how to thread your machine review lesson 5.

After you have rethreaded your sewing machine make sure both the top and bottom flow freely. If they do not make sure that thread is not stuck on something. If it is still not flowing freely and it is not stuck on anything I would try a test on a scrap of fabric, but know that it might be a tension issue (which we will cover in our tension lesson).

Lesson Conclusion
While I would say my cut, stop, and rethread method works 70% of the time, it's still not 100% of the time. This method will not fix all machines all the time, but is a pretty quick way to fix most problems so it's worth trying first. For that 30% of the time it doesn't work we are going to have to do some more investigating. A common problem that you can fix at home that would not be fixed by my stop, cut, and rethread method is tension. So check out our tension lesson, if you are still having any problems. By the end of lesson 8 and 10 you should have either fixed your sewing machine by yourself or know that you really do need to take it to be repaired. Class dismissed!

Found This Post Because You are Having Problems With You Machine?
Since starting this sewing school I have had many people trying to ask my questions about problems with their sewing machines. I will not answer any specific answers to your machine questions beyond this so please don't ask. Here is my general advice: "Have you read the above my article and applied what you learned? If not try that. If your machine is still not working check out my tension guide (our next lesson), clean and oil your machine according to your manuels instructions, also check your sewing machine manual which usually while have a troubleshooting guide as well. If this does not work you can try a sewing forum such as Threads magazine's or try a search online describing your problem. If this all fails you need to take your machine in to be repaired, unfortunately sometimes you just have to.

Homework:
Chant stop, cut, and rethread........stop, cut, and rethread.... while you mediate and any time you have sewing machine problems!

Next Lesson: Basic Sewing Terms

Previous Lessons:
lesson 1: Welcome and intro first,
lesson 2: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine
lesson 3: Sewing Machine Supplies
lesson 4: Getting to Know Your Machine

lesson 6: How to Sew a Straight, curved, and corner line

lesson 7: How to Sew a Basic Seam

Next Lessons:
lesson 9: Basic Sewing Terms
lesson 10: How to Fix Tension on Your Sewing Machine
lesson 11: How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

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, by JULIE

Start Our Free Online Sewing Class For Beginners

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, by JULIE

Check out A Beautiful Mess's post about different types of seams

How to Sew a Basic Seam

So What is a Basic Seam?
A basic seam is the seam you will use the most often. Once you learn a basic seam there is an endless amount of projects you can do. There are two different ways of doing a basic seam. One is an open seam, and one is a closed seam. Let's look at both.

Closed Seam
The standard basic seam I use is a seam sewn at 3/8-5/8" with the ends (the fraying fabric part) secured by either using the zig-zag stitch on your home sewing machine(pictured first below), or serged with a serger machine (pictured second below).

Why We Need to Secure The Ends
We secure the ends with either zigzag stitch (on home sewing machines), serged (with sergers), or pinked (with pinking sheers). The reason we need to secure the fraying edges is to make sure that the seam stays secure. If we did not secure it eventually the fabric would fray to the seam, (not to mention the threads that would end up in your laundry!), and eventually the seam and your project would fall apart. Remembers this while you are doing this step. I have found it helps students to remember why they are doing a step, and what they are trying to accomplish. That way you know if you are "doing it right or not". If you accomplished your goal, in this case securing the ends so they cannot fray than yes. If you did not accomplish your goal in securing the ends (like if your sewing is to close to the seam and not touching the edge), then no.

Advantages and Disadvantages of this Seam

The reason I use this way of making a basic seam is it's so much faster! Let's face it sewing does take a lot of time and you're more likely to finish your project the less time it takes. The disadvantage to doing a closed one step seam is you won't have the ability to have to large of a seam allowance because it will be to bulky.

Zig zag Closed seam from Angela Osborn

Serged Closed seam from Angela Osborn

Open Seam
Another way you could do a basic seam is to zig zag stitch or use pinking sheers to both ends of the fabric (the fraying parts of the seam) and then iron it open as pictured below.

Advantages and Disadvantages of this Seam
The advantage to this type of basic seam is that it is easier to alter if needed because it can have a wider seam allowance, without being bulky. So if you think you might gain some weight or want some extra wiggle room for mistakes this would be the seam for you. One disadvantage is it takes about three times as long to do an open basic seam versus a closed basic seam.

Open Seam from Commercially Alternative

Supplies Needed for This Lesson

threaded sewing machine
two pieces of fabric scraps similar in size
scissors and a seam ripper

Now that you know what a basic seam is let's start sewing. First you need to make sure your sewing machine is plugged in to the outlet and that your foot pedal is plugged into your machine. Then thread your machine. Now make sure you have two pieces of fabric that are similar size and preferably have a right and a wrong side that are obvious. "What's that?" you say. Well let's look at that first.

Right Side Wrong Side

Shwin and Shwin

All fabric have a right side and a wrong side, some are just more obvious than others. The right side is the side of the fabric you want showing on your fabric and the wrong side is the side you want inside your project (not showing). See the picture above for an example. Often I have had students (and I've done this myself) looking carefully at both sides of a piece of fabric trying to determine "which is the right or wrong side". In this case I usually tell students to just pick what side they want to show on the outside and consider that the right side. It's your project so you decide is my rule of thumb. When sewing a basic seam you always want right sides together. So position your pieces of fabric right sides together now.

I'd encourage you to use fabric that has an obvious right and wrong side starting off. I find that it is much easier for students to learn this way, once you are more comfortable sewing you can begin to use fabrics that have less obvious right and wrong sides. The reason is you will often find yourself forgetting to check that the correct side is facing the way it should, and end up proudly finishing your next step, only to realize you need to rip it all out only to start again because your wrong side is facing out. I've done this more times than I can count! If you are using fabric where both the wrong and right side look similar than you might not notice when you accidentally have the wrong side facing out. It's better to learn to always double check that you have your right and wrong sides positioned correctly while you are making small projects, and if you don't realize you've made a mistake you won't learn this good habit that will save you a lot of time and frustration!

Image of Seam Allowance Guides From future Girl

Seam Allowance and Sewing Straight
A guide is the lines next to your presser foot with measurements such as 3/8, 5/8 (as pictured above). Seam allowance refers to the area between the stitching and raw, cut edge of the fabric. The most common seam allowances are 1/4", 1/2" and 5/8". Always check your pattern directions and use the seam allowance called for in the directions. Typically commercial production uses 1/4" and most patterns call for 5/8". The reason for the difference in home sewing and commercial (manufacturing) is the larger seam allowance gives the home sewer some room to make mistakes or to take out seams in the future. Commercial production wants to use the least mount of fabric needed to cut down on costs.

Back Stitching or Back Tack
Whenever you are starting or finishing a seam you need to back tack, to secure the seam. If you don't do this your seam will fall apart. (If you have a sewing machine for quick tailoring that doesn't have this function you will need to tie a knot in the beginning and end of the seam). You will need to find the reverse stitching button on your sewing machine. It varies where it's located on every machine.

Get Your Machine Ready to Sew

Set Stitch length
First make sure that you stitch length is set anywhere from 3-5. While learning to sew I suggest using a longer stitch length when practicing, so when you need to rip out a seam it's easy. The typical stitch length used in most projects is 2-3.

Position Your Fabric
Now take your two pieces of fabric right sides together so the wrong side is facing you as you put the fabric under the presser foot and chose a guide to use based on how much seam allowance you want to use.
If you for example chose a 5/8" seam allowance you should position the end of your fabric on the 5/8" line and use this as your guide to keep your seam straight. Once your fabric is properly positioned put your presser foot down (the lever is behind your presser foot).

Time To Sew Your Seam!

Make sure your sewing machine is turned on and your foot on the pedal while having your hand on the reverse switch.
Now put light pressure on the foot pedal (go very slow) and count 1,2,3,4 (forward) and press the reverse button to go 1,2,3,4 (backward) then keep sewing forward being careful to stay aligned with your guide.
Go slow while beginning, you will actually save time going slower because you'll have less mistakes that you need to rip out.
Once you are about an inch away from the end of your seam go very slowly until you are almost at the end of the seam.
Then press the reverse button, and count 1,2,3,4 (backwards) and 1,2,3,4 (forward) and stop your done. Just remember to lift the presser foot and cut off the threads.

Homework:

Watch this great video from Threads magazine about sewing an open pinked seam. She is very detailed and I think everyone will find it helpful.

How to Sew a Basic Seam: Threads Magazine (5 min)

If you have an problems, questions, or comments don't be shy! Next lesson we will cover patterns. Class dismissed!

Next lesson: Trouble Shooting Your Sewing Machine

Previous Lessons:
lesson 1: Welcome and intro first,
lesson 2: Guide to Buying a Sewing Machine
lesson 3: Sewing Machine Supplies
lesson 4: Getting to Know Your Machine